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Gilberto Valladares Reina, accepted as Papito, cuts beard at the Artecorte salon in Old Havana. (AP Photo / Franklin Reyes)

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December 27 is acclaimed in Cuba as the Day of the Beautician and Hairdresser. The action was inaugurated by the prerevolutionary Cuban government in 1946, in account of the barber, poet, and historian Juan Evangelista Valdés Veitía. In contempo times, a bounded association activity in the celebrated commune of Old Havana accepted as Artecorte has approved to animate this holiday—and adorn the barter of hairdressing—with acts of accessible theater, hairstyle shows, and art festivals.

Beginning in 2010, Artecorte, calm with the Burghal Historian’s Office, adapted a baby amplitude of Calle Aguiar, baptizing it “Hairdressers’ Alley.” They adequate the facades of the old colonial-style barrio and repaved the sidewalks of the admiring street. At the access to Hairdressers’ Alley there is a carve of a gigantic brace of scissors fabricated of atramentous animate by artisan Alberto Matamoros. The inscription below it reads, “A Tribute to the Barbers and Hairdressers of the World.”

The activity has been apprenticed by bounded citizen and allegorical beautician Gilberto Valladares Reina (Papito), who sees hairdressing as an art and hairdressers as axial to acclimation communities and bringing about change in their societies. Papito hopes to affix with barbers and hairdressers about the apple by requesting that they accelerate a brace of their old hairdressing scissors to Artecorte, which will again attach them to the scissors monument, forth with their names.

The sculpture, by artisan Albert Matamoros, at the access to Hairdresser’s Alley. The inscription below it reads, “A Tribute to the Barbers and Hairdressers of the World.” (Sujatha Fernandes)

Papito’s beard salon, which additionally functions as a Barbershop Museum, is on the added attic of a accommodation architecture at the alpha of the street. It is abounding with aboriginal paintings on the affair of hairdressing and aged collectors’ items of old banknote registers, beautician chairs, atom brushes, and hairdressing accessories from the accomplished century. A decade ago, this salon was the alone business on what was a actual poor street. Today, in this baby amplitude of alone about 100 meters, there are 23 locally run baby businesses such as alfresco cafés and restaurants that apply added than 100 people. The gain from these businesses are put aback into the community, which includes a chargeless bartending academy and chargeless hairdressing academy on Calle Aguiar, in accession to a ambit of added activities in the broader Santo Ángel barrio. The walls and streets are abounding with paintings, sculptures, and murals, as able-bodied as history placards assuming old pictures of the artery and the adjacency from the 19th century.

A decade ago, this salon was the alone business on what was a actual poor street. Today there are 23, and their gain are put aback into the bounded community.

Papito started the association academy of hairdressing in 2010 to advise a barter to bounded kids, but now adolescent bodies appear from beyond the burghal to booty his classes. The academy is on the added attic of one of the colonial barrio that band the street. Papito, a light-skinned Cuban with a baldheaded arch in his backward 40s, stands afore a accumulation of some 20 accepting all attired in black. He makes addendum on a whiteboard, charwoman it with a bolt and some shampoo, as he philosophizes, entertains, and imparts history while affable with the students, who assume to adhere on his every word.

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Part of the advance involves acquirements the basal abilities of the trade, but Papito wants to accouter his accepting with abundant added than abstruse training. He emphasizes that hairdressing is not aloof about acid people’s hair. “We are artists, we are creators, we inspire,” he tells the students, auspicious them to accessory for afflatus in films, videos, magazines, television, from bodies walking by in the street. “One of the best fonts of afflatus is begin in nature,” he says. “Shape, color, and the rhythms and movement of after-effects in the sea accept aggressive painters, poets, composers, and stylists.”

“We are artists, we are creators, we inspire. In Cuba, hairdressers accept the ability to do article acceptable for society.” —hairdresser Papito

History is additionally fodder for inspiration. Pointing to the posters abaft him—signature haircuts and barbershop abstract from the 1940s—Papito tells his accepting to analysis hairstyles from beforehand epochs with an eye to reinventing them. He says afflatus additionally frequently comes from artery styles and nightspots. Papito wants to acquaint to the accepting that the stylist is an artisan who engages with association and works for amusing change. This is altered from the profession in added genitalia of the world, area hairdressing is apparent as a advantageous business. “In Cuba,” says Papito, “hairdressers accept the ability to do article acceptable for society.”

The accepting accessory the academy are from a ambit of backgrounds—white and mixed-race, but few atramentous Cubans. One wonders if there is abundant acquaintance of the means in which atramentous hairstyles accept continued been apparent as an art anatomy and as a political statement. In the 1940s, African Americans bidding their character through the break hairstyle, and in the 1960s, Afro-Cubans wore accustomed Afros in adherence with the Atramentous Ability movement in the United States.

Just a few houses up from the hairdressing academy is a bartending academy admiral in the Bar Cabaña, area a visiting American bartender addresses a roomful of adolescent Cubans dressed in red T-shirts with the logo of the French-Cuban aggregation Havana Club, which funds the classes. He offers anecdotes and cultural explanations about such things as the home cocktail bar generally begin in American active rooms. Over a nine-month period, the accepting are accomplished in bartending skills; aloft graduating, they will get a job in Cuba’s accretion tourism industry. One of the prerequisites for accepting into the advance is English-language skills. The accepting are additionally accomplished about the history of affair in Cuba, so that they can absorb assemblage with this information.

The accepting adapt activities such as painting, sports, and antic shows for adjacency children, and they facilitate a account ball affair with a alive DJ for earlier residents.

Both the bartending and hairdressing schools are affiliated with the Artecorte project, and the accepting are encouraged to advance in association programs in the Santo Ángel barrio. The accepting adapt activities such as painting, sports, and antic shows for adjacency children, and they facilitate a account ball affair with a alive DJ for earlier Cubans at the Nueva Vida chief center, one artery over. They additionally aggregate donations of clothes, soap, and absterge for the seniors, and cut their hair.

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When we access at the ball party, a 90-year-old woman with her white beard angry in two buns has the microphone and is belting out the lyrics to “Que Manera de Quererte,” by the Puerto Rican salsero Gilberto Santa Rosa. She dances in footfall to the music advancing from the DJ and sings with abundant emotion: “Where can I get wet if not in your laughter? Area can I alcohol you if not in your mouth?” An aged man in a catchbasin top and cap swivels his achievement abutting to her, and a atramentous woman in a red headscarf spins about and after-effects her accoutrements in the air. A few others get up, afraid their achievement as they ball with some of the students. The added built-in seniors bellow loudly, clap, and ball in their seats. “In what way can I adulation you?” they all bell in on the chorus. “In what way?”

Papito was built-in in 1969 in Santo Ángel. At the age of 18, he started alive as a beautician in one of the state-run salons in the banal adjacency of Jesús María. Until 1993, back clandestine businesses were legalized, about all hairdressers and barbers were government employees. Papito opened his own clandestine salon in 1999, area he has been alive anytime since. In the aforementioned year, he founded Artecorte.

The Cuban government accustomed self-employment partly in acknowledgment to the aerial unemployment that aggress Cuba afterwards the collapse of its capital benefactor, the Soviet Union. Licenses were acceptable for a ambit of trades, and in 1995 baby ancestors restaurants, accepted as paladares, were legalized. By 1996, there were added than 200,000 baby businesses in Cuba, and with added reforms alien by Raúl Castro in 2010, that cardinal has accomplished about 535,000.

Overall, the government’s access against baby businesses has been incoherent. It has accustomed the contributions fabricated by these businesses to the civic abridgement and in abating abjection in the face of bargain accompaniment services, but the government is additionally anxious about this sector’s political role, which it fears may eventually affectation a threat. At times, the government has aloof licenses in assertive trades and reintroduced akin legislation. Baby businesses are accessible to crackdowns, and accept generally begin themselves attacked by the media.

For some North American observers, the Cuban small-business area represents the repressed spirit of entrepreneurialism that will deliver Cubans from the shackles of a state-managed economy. Back then–US President Barack Obama visited Cuba in March 2016, he met with a accumulation of Cuban entrepreneurs, including Papito. According to Papito, Obama told the accumulated accumulation that ambitious adolescence in the United States face no limitations, and can accomplish $100 actor aloof by alive out of their garage. Hearing Obama, however, Papito acquainted that such a arrangement would not assignment in Cuba, area there is beneath of an alone drive to become a millionaire back so abounding cannot accomplish ends meet, as able-bodied as a able faculty of adherence with accompany and neighbors who advice one addition out. “Culturally, we are altered from the US and added genitalia of the apple area aggregate is based in consumerism and individualism,” he said. “Cubans are socialized differently.”

Vintage salon appliance at Artecorte in Old Havana. (Sujatha Fernandes)

Rather than abutting a political opposition, abounding small-business owners like Papito accept become breezy leaders of their communities. Popular Ability is the official arrangement of bounded representation that was put in abode afterwards the anarchy to reflect the apropos of the bounded barrios at the borough and bigoted levels. Papito’s ancestor was a Popular Ability agent of the Santo Ángel barrio, and on one of the doors of Hairdressers’ Alley, a apprehension announces an accessible accumulation for the choice of Popular Ability delegates. But in contempo times, bodies accept appear to accept beneath acceptance in this arrangement due to the abridgement of government resources. Hence the acceleration of breezy leaders like Papito, who can abode bounded basement problems with his own funds or by soliciting donations from bounded association and businesses. “By actuality an breezy leader, I can do a lot more,” Papito says. “Things are not so politicized.”

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Papito has started a civic arrangement of hairdressers that has 150 associates in abate towns and ambit beyond the country. Part of his mission has consistently been to allotment ability of the barter with bodies alfresco Havana. One video shows a adolescent Papito with short, bleached-blond beard visiting some associates of the arrangement in the axial bigoted boondocks of Santa Clara. A woman explains her allure to the profession. “You accept abounding dreams central you, and this gives you a way to accurate them,” she says. On December 27, 2007, 300 hairdressers from beyond the country active the Plaza Vieja in Old Havana in adjustment to mark the Day of the Beautician and Hairdresser. This corte simultáneo, or “simultaneous haircut,” was an act of amphitheater that showed hairdressers rescuing the aesthetic ethics of the trade.

The Artecorte activity has parallels with added urban-revitalization projects in above automated or banal neighborhoods about the world. As with these added projects, there are apropos actuality that the about-face is accidental to a gentrification that could eventually force out the aboriginal residents, who are best vulnerable. Indeed, the attendance of groups like Havana Club may arresting moves against abstraction awakening in the interests of the tourism industry and corporations. Yet clashing these added cases, Artecorte is directed by bounded residents, with barrio adherence as their primary goal. “There is a crisis of ethics in our apple today,” says Papito. “We cannot break abjection alone with money. We additionally charge a faculty of commonality.”

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