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FOR the aboriginal two weeks that she wore her beard in bound braids swept into a pageboy silhouette, Cheryl Tatum, a restaurant accountant at a Hyatt auberge in burghal Washington, accustomed compliments. Then a administrator told her to cull the braids into a bun to accede with Hyatt’s dress code.

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She complied, but three weeks after the cadre administrator at the auberge -the Hyatt Regency Crystal City, abreast the National Airport – told her to unbraid her hair, adage that Hyatt action barred ”extreme and abnormal beard styles.” Ms. Tatum, who is black, refused. She absent her job and is now advancing a bigotry affirmation afore the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission.

Sydney M. Boone, a atramentous blast abettor at the Grand Hyatt Washington in the city area of the capital, wore a wig over her braids back told that her beard appearance abandoned aggregation policy. She, too, has filed a bigotry complaint with the commission.

While no one knows how abounding agnate instances accept occurred, lawyers, beard stylists and others beyond the nation said in interviews that atramentous women were more actuality affected to accept amid a job and African-influenced braided beard styles. Women and stylists argue that braids action activated and benign advantages, but some administration say that such styles do not fit their accumulated images.

Hiddekel Burks, who has been braiding beard in Chicago for 11 years, said, ”I’d affected that things would get a lot better, but afresh I’ve been audition a lot of letters of problems.”

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The Hyatt Corporation, which has address in Chicago, has denied that it has affianced in ancestral discrimination; the denials came both in interviews and in affairs with the advocate for Ms. Tatum and Ms. Boone. John R. Hamilton, a chief carnality president, said in a blast account bygone that Hyatt had offered to achieve the Tatum and Boone cases and that the women were now belief the proposal.

Mr. Hamilton issued a charge aftermost month, however, to Hyatt’s 80 hotels answer that braided beard styles – decidedly a acceptable anatomy accepted as cornrows – were not automatically to be accounted extreme.

Cornrows absorb braiding the beard abutting to the attic in abounding neatly beggared rows. Other styles at affair use abounding carefully spaced continued braids after arresting parts, or rows.

Hair stylists say that women who abrasion their beard in braids more accommodate doctors, lawyers, teachers, accounting workers, flight attendants, ministers and entertainers.

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Last week, the Rev. Jesse Jackson, the civil-rights baton and Presidential aspirant, entered the controversy, calling calm the advocate for the two women, Eric Steele, and attorneys for the Hyatt Corporation. According to Mr. Jackson’s spokesman, Frank Watkins, if the altercation is not resolved, Mr. Jackson will abolish affairs to use Hyatt hotels during his attack for the Democratic Presidential nomination. Mr. Watkins said that talks are continuing.

Mr. Jackson’s affair with attorneys occurred as 50 or so protesters, associates of a affiliation formed by Ms. Boone, approved alfresco the Grand Hyatt in Washington and stepped up their attack to appetite blacks to avoid that hotel.

Other administration who accede that they prohibit braids in accepted or cornrows in accurate accommodate some aegis companies and badge departments – amid them, the Metropolitan Badge Department in Washington – American Airlines and the Marriott Corporation. Institutions with atramentous memberships or administration that accept such prohibitions accommodate the Atlanta Urban League and the Howard University Hospital.

The employers’ objections are usually couched in agreement that braided beard violates their admonishment standards and fails to present a accomplished image. But the atramentous advisers involved, and their supporters, say that what is at the affection of the altercation is racism and cultural intolerance. They see a bequest to the canicule back adorableness was abstinent by white standards, and blacks were fabricated to feel inferior because of their concrete features.

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Dress codes and admonishment behavior – which generally awning hair, makeup, nails, jewelry, accouterment and shoes -are not new. Courts and the Equal Employment Opportunity Agency accept captivated that administration may accept any admonishment standards they account adapted for an angel they seek to project, so continued as those standards are activated in a abstract manner. But in arduous prohibitions adjoin braided beard styles, attorneys in the accepted cases and others accept argued that such behavior accept a asymmetric appulse aloft blacks and are discriminatory.

Mr. Steele, the advocate for Ms. Boone and Ms. Tatum, said that Hyatt singled out braided beard styles beat by atramentous women but added that the association has said annihilation about abnormal or acute hairdos beat by whites – annoying jailbait haircuts, for example.

When Ms. Tatum went to assignment at the Hyatt in September 1984, she had a actinic relaxer in her hair, but she said her beard became so damaged that she had it cut off, about to the scalp. By aboriginal August 1986, back her beard had developed longer, she angry to braids. And agitation anon followed.

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